![]() ![]() So while overheating is usually caused by an over-ambitious overlock or improperly installed cooler, rather than being part and parcel of computer ownership, it’s worth understanding how to monitor CPU temperatures so that you can spot potential issues quickly. Luckily this isn’t a common problem, but if you’ve just built a PC from scatch, have installed a new CPU in your existing setup, or are attempting to overclock, checking the CPU temperature is a quick step that can reassure you that all is well – just as much as it can warn you of an overly hot chip.Įxcess heat is a PC’s natural enemy, and gaming systems – with CPUs tending towards higher clock speeds, plus dedicated graphics cards producing extra warmth inside the case – are especially at risk. You know, I hadn't thought about reversing the flow of the intercooler system, but I do like that idea.Once you know how to monitor your CPU temperature, you’ll be able to perform a vital health check on a PC component that you very, very much do not want to overheat and break. ![]() There's probably more benefit to be gained by the a/c system. It would still have to be better than no fans on the heat exchanger. Not an ideal situation for radiator, but that air is not super heated to the point it's not effective. If there is heated air leaving the heat exchanger, it still has to go through the condenser and pick up more heat before it goes through the radiator. If it's hot enough to need the fans, chances are you're running A/C. I knew I could make as much money with my new career goal and stay closer to my family.Īs to collateral benefit from the HE fans, yes and no. I would have to move to a larger city, or up north, to gain employment. In the mid-70s, it appeared that the muscle car era had died, and that was my passion. There were a lot of reasons for changing curriculum's. If the PC had been invented 10 years earlier, I'd probably never have gotten out of it. I guess my education didn't stop at graduation. Not everything you read on the internet is true, so sometimes sorting out the BS is a challenge. I'm just expressing the way I see things work and regurgitating things I've read. I spent 3 semesters in engineering in college, but I chose another path for my career, so I am by no means an engineer. Without it, the by-pass valve may not be opening at idle and light cruise. The lobes by themselves, in the absence of boost, is only generating heat at the bearings in the rear and gears in the snout, but the lobes are huge heat sinks once they get hot.īecause some cammed engines can't pull 15 psi of vacuum at idle, L&M engines makes a by-pass actuator motor that has a lighter spring and operates with a lower vacuum signal. A twin screw is always going to compress air, and the reason the OEMs tend to go roots. There is very little parasitic drag when there is no boost. Once the level of vacuum decreases to where it can no longer collapse the spring, the valve will shut. The by-pass has an internal spring that will close the by-pass valve in the absence of enough vacuum. No, it's just a simple vacuum actuator, so don't assume it's responsible for anything other than opening and closing the by-pass valve. On a boosted application, the more boost, the more heat you generate. If air is flowing fast enough, it won't have a very profound effect. Incoming air will only be heated by the walls of the intake system and intake ports. It's a combination of the lobe speeds and the compressed air that builds heat in any boosted application and the reason our intakes have intercoolers. But most N/A engines don't have these large plenum areas either. N/A cars do have spark retard for high IATs, but they don't need as much retard as a boosted engine. I'm merely pointing out that the intercooler has little to do with manifold temps under those conditions. I see a lot of people evaluating their larger or fan cooled heat exhangers based on IAT2s at idle and cruise. The problem is there will be more resulting heat sink because of it however. ![]() The short answer is no at low load conditions. So to answer your question, is non-intercooled air really a problem. If you're pulling 20 psi of vacuum, the by-pass is wide open. There are circumstances where vacuum can be under 15 psi and the by-pass is not completely shut, like at part throttle. When the by-pass is completely closed, all air is going through the intercooler. It's difficult to slowly bleed off vacuum with the mity-vac to get better feedback. Dropping the vacuum to about 12 psi and the by-pass starts to close. It generally opens fully at 15 psi of vacuum. I've played around with the by-pass and my mity-vac to see what happens when vacuum is increased and decreased. You'd have to watch the by-pass under vacuum. It's difficult to determine just what level of vacuum is needed to close the by-pass when vacuum is decreasing. Actually when there is less than 15 psi, the by-pass begins closing. ![]()
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